Tasting D egus tazione - Degustazione storica Ca è e metodi di estrazione dal 1900 a oggi - Caffè Milani
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egustazione
orica
affè e metodi di estrazione
al 1900 a oggi
Historical
D egustazione
S torica
tasting
Vivereand
Coffee la sthe
toria
extraction
methods from the ‘900 to
dell’espresso
the presentpersona
in prima day.
1
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUZIONE
How many opportunities have you had in your life to sip
Quante
a cup of possibilità
coffee like theavete oneavuto nella vostra vitadid?
your great-grandparents di
sorseggiare un caffè come quello dei
Perhaps none, because preparation methods have changed vostri bisavo-
li?
to Forse
such annessuna,
extent thatperché
Italiani metodi
Espresso,diwhile
preparazione
having inheri- si
sono
ted themodificati
genetic code,a talhas
punto che l’Espresso
an extremely Italiano,
different pur
appearance
avendone
from the one ereditato
people wereil codice genetico,
drinking ha un aspetto
at the beginning of the
estremamente
last century. diverso da quello che si beveva all’ini-
zio del secolo scorso.
To fully
Per understand come
comprendere how we si have reached
è giunti the pointornata
alla tazzina of ha-
ving
di unaa coffee
cremacup color ornated
nocciola withcona hazel-colored
riflessi fulvi,cream
un corpowith
a reflection of
importante reddish brown
e avvolgente, uncolor,
aroma a solid body,che
intenso an intense
copre
aroma that
l’intero arcocovers the entire
olfattivo, Caffèolfactory
Milanispectrum, Caffè Milani
ha estratto dalla
propria esposizione macchine di tre epochefrom
selected from it’s own exhibition three machines diffe-
diverse,
rent periods, representing three basic changes, restored and
rappresentative di tre cambiamenti basilari, le ha ri-
got them to work again, and studied the blends that were
messe in funzione e ha studiato le miscele che con
most likely used.
buona probabilità venivano usate.
Poi,
Soonutilizzando
after, using aun gruppo
group di assaggiatori
of tasters dell’Istituto
at the International Coffee
Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè e i
Tasting Institute and by using the statistical methods metodi statistici
of the
del Centro
Tasting StudiCenter,
Research Assaggiatori le ha profilate.
it has maneged to profile all the
Oggi è quindi in grado di offrire al consumatore at-
blends..
tento, al barista e allo studioso un percorso esperien-
ziale unicotoday
Therefore nel Caffè
suo genere,
Milani is partendo
able to offerdalits 1920 per
consumer,
giungere
bartender all’Espresso
or scholar a Italiano attuale. journey, starting
unique experiential
from the 1900s to the current Italian Espresso.
C AFFÈ MIL ANI
CAFFÈ MILANI
Caffè Milani nasce nel 1937 ed è oggi una delle torre-
Caffè Milani was founded in 1937 and today it is one of the
fazioni
leading leader.
roasting Nel 1998 inè Italy.
factories socioIn fondatore
1998 it wasdell’Istituto
one of the
Nazionale Espresso Italiano e nel
founding partners of the Italian Espresso 2017, in occasione
National Institute
dei
and suoi 80 for
in 2017, anni,
theinaugura
occasion of un’esposizione sul caffè
its 80th anniversary, e
it is ce-
lalebrating
sua storia di raro of
the opening interesse culturale.
a new exhibition about the world of
info@caffemilani.it
coffee and also about its own private history of rare cultural
interest.
IIAC
info@caffemilani.it
L’Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè (Iiac) è
stato fondato nel 1993, vanta oggi oltre 10.500 allievi
residenti in 40 paesi del mondo e i suoi manuali sono
IIAC
stati pubblicati in 11 lingue.
The International Coffee Tasting Institute (Iiac) was founded
info@assaggiatoricaffe.org
in 1993, boasts today over 10,500 students originally from 40
Ricerca
different ecountries
testi di around
Luigi Odello, grafica
the world di manuals
and its Laura Mor,
have
realizzazione
been publisheddel Centro
in 11 Studi Assaggiatori.
languages.
Iinfo@assaggiatoricaffe.org
Edizione: ottobre 2017.
22
THREE CENTURIES OF RESEARCH
TREFOR
SECOLI ALL
A QUICK, A RICERC
STRONG AND A
DI UN C AFFÈ
PLEASANT COFFEE
R APIDO, POTENTE E PIACEVOLE
At the end of the 19th century coffee had become a part
of tramonto
Al the daily activity
del XIXin secolo
the western
il caffèworld
c’erafor edateraleast three
entrato
centuries. During this timeframe, many systems
nelle abitudini degli occidentali almeno da tre secoli. and methods
had been questo
Durante developed in order
lasso to prepare
temporale si it.erano
In fact,sviluppati
for at least
molti sistemi per farlo. In pratica, per almenothe
300 years, the world of coffee worked hard to fulfill trethree
se-
basic needs which are strongly linked together: quickness,
coli, il mondo del caffè lavorò sodo per soddisfare tre
strength, and pleasure. A goal that was only reached in the
necessità tra loro fortemente connesse: rapidità, for-
last century with the birth of the Espresso.
za, piacere. Obiettivo che raggiunse solo nel secolo
scorso con la nascita dell’espresso.
QUICKNESS
LBoil
A RtheAPIDITÀ
coffee powder at least three times or wait patiently
Far bollire la polvere
for the gravity force todi caffè
allow thealmeno
hot watertre to
volte
seepo through
aspet-
tare pazientemente che la forza di gravità consentisse
a layer of coffee making the drink free of grinds. This was the
all’acqua calda divided
challange which di attraversare unoallstrato
coffee lovers di caffè
through ren-
the ninete-
dendo la bevanda
enth century. priva
The italic geniusdi fondi?
providedErathequesto dilemma
solution: applying
che divisetoper
pressure hottutto
water,il first
XIX through
secolo gli amanti
steam, thendel
withcaffè.
com-
L’italico ingegno
pressed air, fornì
first using la soluzione:
a spring and finallyl’applicazione
with a pump. del-
la pressione all’acqua bollente, dapprima attraverso
ilThe result? poi
vapore, Twenty-five
con l’ariamilliliters of pleasant
compressa, and syrupy
quindi cof-
con una
fee in only
molla 25 seconds.
e infine con una pompa.
Il risultato? Venticinque millilitri di caffè soave e sci-
STRENGTH
ropposo in 25 secondi.
Strength was – and still is - measured by the intensity of the
Laroma
A FOR andZ A
tactile consistency (the body, or syrupy texture,
whatever you wish to call it). The evolution of the espresso
La forza era - ed è - valutata attraverso l’intensità
technique led to achieving an unprecedented strength, redu-
dell’aroma e la consistenza tattile (il corpo, o scirop-
cing the required coffee dose to half or even less.
posità che dir si voglia). L’evoluzione della tecnica
espresso
HEDONISM portò a ottenere una forza mai raggiunta
prima riducendo la dose
Small and cuddling sips di caffè
that carry necessaria
the aroma withinalla
the metà
coffee
oforanche a meno.
a long period of time. It seemed to be an unreachable
goal, but the Espresso made it possible, not only through the
L’EDONISMO
mechanical evolution of the preparation systems but also
Piccoli
throughsorsi carezzevoli
the art of creatingche recano
blends per lungo
by choosing the tempo
best of
l’aroma
what the contenuto inthe
tropics all over unworld
caffè:
hadpareva
to offer. una meta
irraggiungibile, ma l’espresso lo rese possibile, non
solo attraverso l’evoluzione meccanica dei sistemi di
preparazione, ma anche all’arte di comporre miscele
scegliendo il meglio di quanto offrivano i tropici di
tutto il mondo.
33
THE VARIATION OF TASTE
LE TAPPE SIGNIFIC
LE TAPPE SIGNIFICATIVE,
ATIVE,
L A VARIA ZIONE DEL
L A VARIA ZIONE DEL GUSTOGUSTO
9
9
8
8 7
7 6
5
Quick
6
4
Strong
Quick
5
Pleasant
4
3
Strong
1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000
3
Pleasant
1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000
PROTO–ESPRESSO TRANSITION ITALIAN ESPRESSO
9
8
PROTO–ESPRESSO TRANSITION ITALIAN ESPRESSO
7
6
9 5
4
8
3
7
2
6
1
5
0
Colour Olfactive Acidity Astringency Vegetable Roasted Biochemical
4 intensity intensity
Texture Body Bitterness Flowers/fresh Dried Spicy
3 fruit fruits
2
1
Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 4 03/10/2017 11:15:53
0
Colour Olfactive Acidity Astringency Vegetable Roasted Biochemical
intensity intensity
Texture Body Bitterness Flowers/fresh Dried Spicy
fruit fruits
4
THE EVOLUTION OF THE ROASTING PROCESS
L’EVOLUZIONE DELL A TOSTATUR A
Humanity discovered that fire does not only affect the hy-
La scoperta
gienic da parte
characteristics of dell’umanità
food, but also the chesensory
il fuocoaspects
non ha by
solamente
increasing the pleasure, soon enough this discovery degli
effetto sulle caratteristiche igieniche would
alimenti,
affect alsoma theanche
coffee su quelle sensoriali
consumption methodsaumentando
that had evol-
ilved
piacere, coinvolse
from boiling drupesben in presto
water toanche il consumo
the infusion of the del
well
caffè
roastedchegrains.
passò dalla
Until the bollitura
end of thedelle
19th drupe
century,all’infusio-
the roasting
ne dei semi
process sapientemente
was made by conduction tostati. Finoforalla
method, fine del
example, by
XIX secoloheat
supplying la tostatura avveniva
through materials likeperò
iron etc.a conduzione,
The goal was
vale a direbutfornendo
achieved, frequentlyilthecalore
aroma attraverso
was altered unbymateriale
empyreu-
come
matic ilodors
ferro.and L’obiettivo
the taste veniva
was damagedraggiunto,by thema non di
unpleasant
contrasts
rado l’aromabetween bitter anddaacid.
era alterato The use
sentori of steel spheres
empireumatici e
ilthat
gustorotate on a heat source,
pregiudicato da poco most often made
piacevoli of wood,
contrasti tra
improved
amaro the result
e acido. of roasting
L’utilizzo for di
di sfere a greater
acciaio homogeneity,
che ruota-
but the true leap of quality
vano su una fonte di calore, il più delle took place aftervolte
Worldfornito
War II,
da legna, migliorava il risultato della to- statura perwhi-
with the introduction of gas heated roasting machine in la
ch heat transfer
maggiore was entrusted
omogeneità to hotma
raggiunta, air. The development
il vero salto di
of Italian Espresso was synchronized with the evolution of
qualità si fece dopo la seconda guerra mondiale con
the drum roasting machines the type that work on “batchs”
l’introduzione delle tostatrici riscaldate a gas nelle
with varying cycles of 17 to 27 minutes. Today, equipped with
quali il trasporto del calore era affidato ad aria calda.
sophisticated software that makes the process safer, but still
L’Espresso Italiano si sviluppa dunque su macchine a
always supervised by an employee, who through a well-stu-
tamburo
died setting, questo
di is able totipo chefrom
obtain funzionano
raw coffee a “cotte” con
beans which
cicli variabili tra 17 e 27 minuti. Oggi dotate
arrive from all over the world, the ideal components for com- di softwa-
reposing
sofisticati che rendono
rich, profound il processo
and intense blends. più sicuro, sono
però sempre governate dall’uomo che, attraverso
un’impostazione sapiente, ottiene da caffè crudo che
giunge da ogni parte del mondo, le componenti ide-
ali per comporre miscele ricche, profonde e potenti.
5THE BLEND:
L A MISCEL A: L’ARTE
THE ITALIAN ART OF ITALIANA
FINDING DI
COMBINARE THEMATRIMONI
RIGHT MATCH D’AMORE
L’arte della miscela si sviluppa in Italia ed è alla base
dell’Espresso Italiano.
The art of blending La miscela
was developed sopravanza
in Italy and has beeninfatti
the
cronologicamente
foundation of the Italianle macchine
Espresso. In per la preparazione
fact chronologically the
blend
del existed
caffè even before
espresso: the 1845
già nel espresso coffeetrattati
celebri machines were
descri-
invented:lealready
vevano in 1845
migliori the most
qualità knownper
di caffè treatises described
ottenere una
the best qualities
miscela eccellente of coffee
e come in pursuit of theinperfect
trattarle blend per
tostatura and
also describe
ricavare dallehow to handle
singole the beans
origini while roasting in order
più componenti.
to achieve
La miscelathe maximum
dunque nonpotential
nasce from a single per
solamente origindare
coffee.
al
consumatore un caffè dal profilo sensoriale costante
oThe
percreation of a blend
migliorare is not del
la tenuta just panello
in order to di give thesotto
caffè con-
sumer a coffee with a constant sensorial experience or to
la pressione delle macchine, bensì per aumentare in
improve the resistance of coffee under the pressure of the
modo mirabile il profilo aromatico del caffè in tazza,
machine, but rather to enhance the aromatic features of a
mettendo quindi in risalto ciò che specie, varietà e
cup of coffee in a wonderful way, highlighting what every type,
origini hanno
variety and regionda has
offrire per in
to offer incrementare
increasing the ilpleasure.
piacere.
6SEVENTY YEARS OF ITALIAN ESPRESSO
SET TANT’ANNI DI ESPRESSO ITALIANO
BUON
GOOD TASTE GUSTO
Conquistatori
Conquerors first, prima,
then conquistati
conquered by poi, l’I-
others,
Italy has been for millenniums the melting pot
talia è da milleni il crogiolo della estetica
of good
del gustotaste and aesthetics
TALENT
INGEGNO
Not just
Non solo mechanical
elementielements, but ama
meccanici, wise com-
sele-
bination and selection of the coffee
zione e unione sapiente di caffè di tutto arriving
ilfrom all regions
mondo of the
per dare worldatobasso
piacere give you plea-
costo
sure and satisfaction at low cost
OPTIMIZATION
POVERTÀ
Saving hot water
Risparmiare acquaandcalda
coffee (from(da
e caffè 13/15 g to
13/15
5/7a 5/7
g g) without sacrificing
g) senza ridurrethe pleasure
il piacere
71900 – 1940
THE COFFEE OF THE STEAM DRIVEN MACHINE
THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD
OF COFFEE
1899 – The invention of the vacuum-sealing Method:
increases the shelf life of the coffee.
1901 – Bezzera registers the first model of coffee
machines adequate for coffee shops.
1906 – Benzene is the caffeine solvent in the first
decaffeinated coffee.
1908 – Melitta Benz creates the first coffee filter with a
1900
simple pan with a hole in it and blotting paper.
IL C AFFÈ DELL A MACCHINA A VAPORE
1933 – Alfonso Bialetti creates the Moka Express.
AN
20
Intensità colore
THE STEAM MACHINE
Golbale odori Tessitura
negativi
In 1901 thanks to Luigi Bezzera, the era of vertical steam
Golbale odori Intensità olfattiva
machines began, most fascinating thanks to their impressive
positivi
structure.The trend of drinking coffee in the coffee shops had
spread, where its prepared and served “instantly”.
In the steam macchine the extraction process starts with aCorpo
Biochimici
diversifirst passage of boiling water on the grounded coffee when
the coffee maker begins to drip, you close the water tap and
open the steam, which pushes the water to go through the
coffee in the filter and into the cup. One minute of waiting
and the drink can be served.
Speziato Acido
8THE COFFEE
By the middle of the 19th century, Arabica is the only variety
of cultivated coffee available1900
and Brazil gains most of the wor-
ld’s production
IL C AFFÈ thanks
DELLtoAitsMACCHINA
wide availability of fertile lands.
A VAPORE
Due to a roya epidemic, a fungus that causes serious damage
NI
AN
to coffee plant and ultimately killing it, begins the search for
20
new varieties that can withstand this parasite in the Coffea
Canephora (Robusta).
In Italy, during the Second World War, the importation of go-
ods is stopped and coffee is replaced with substitutes such as C
chicory, hibiscus tea and barley.
When the conflict is over, the coffee makes a comeback and Chio
with it the pleasure of going to the coffee shop and enjoying
an instant coffee.
In the cup the coffee looks like a black beverage mostly free
of cream at the surface due to the coarse grinding of the
C
beans and high temperature during the preparation process.
Colour intensity
Overall negative Texture
odours
Overall positive Olfactive intensity
odours © 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Body
Biochemical
Spicy Acidity
Roasted Bitterness
Dried fruits Astringency
Vegetable Flowers/ www.ass
fresh fruit
Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 8 03/10/2017 11:16:16
91950
THE COFFEE OF THE LEVER MACHINE
THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD
OF COFFEE
1947 – Achille Gaggia invents and patents the lever
machine.
1947 – The Espresso as we know it today, was born.
1950 – In America, instant coffee is introduced into
homes and sales increase. At the work place
1950 a daily habit.
coffee break become
IL C AFFÈ DELL A MACCHINA A LEVA
NI
AN
20
C
Chiod
C
Intensità colore P
THE SPRING PISTON LEVER MACHINE
Golbale odori Tessitura
negativi
The lever
Golbale odorimachine was assembled in 1938 by Achille Gag-
Intensità olfattiva
gia a bartender from Milan who patented the lever system
positivi
by launching the “crema caffè” technology. Ten years later a
large-scale production of this revolutionary bar machinery
© 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Biochimici
is launched. Corpo
diversi
The pressure inside the machine is created by a piston driven
by a spring, both connected to a lever; lowering the lever
the spring is compressed and the hot water fills the cylinder
chamber underneath, coming into contact with the blend Acido
Speziato
in
the filter holder and paving the way for the pre-infusion.
When releasing the lever, the spring pushes the piston crea- M
ting pressure and forcing the hot water to pass through the
ground coffee, obtaining a dense, syrupy beverage with aAmaro
Tostato per-
sistent cream on the surface.
M
Frutta secca ed Astringenza
essiccata 10
Vegetale Fiori e frutta www.assa
frescaTHE COFFEE
Due to post-war aftermath and climate reasons, finding raw
materials is difficult and for this reason the coffee price in-
creases.
African countries are focusing their work on the cultivation of
1950
Robusta IL as aCsource of self-sustainment
AFFÈ DELL A MACCHINA and A
profit.
LEVA
In Italy, with the distribution of the lever machine, Espresso
NI
AN
was born and became the symbol of “made in Italy”.
20
From an elite product, coffee became a common and popular
drink consumed by all. In 1953, men consumed an average of
1.7 cups of coffee compared to 1.3 cups of coffee for women.
The quality of the bar Espresso is superior to the home-made
coffee; hence the Italian expression of “good coffee like the
one you drink at the bar”.
Chi
Colour intensity
Overall negative Texture
odours
Overall positive Olfactive intensity
odours
© 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Body
Biochemical
Spicy Acidity
Roasted Bitterness
Dried fruits Astringency
Vegetable Flowers/ www.a
fresh fruit
10
11
Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 10 03/10/2017 11:16:361960
THE COFFEE OF THE A CONTINUOUS
DELIVERY MACHINE
THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD
OF COFFEE
1961 – The E61 is the first continuous delivery coffee
machine.
1963 – Bunn creates the machine for the automatic
preparation of filtered coffee.
1964 – Maxim is the first freeze-dried coffee.
1968 – The single directional
1960 degassing valve
revolutionizes the
IL C AFFÈ DELL A MACCHINAcoffee packaging in the world.
A POMPA
NI
AN
20
C
Chiod
C
Intensità colore P
Golbale odori
THE CONTINUOUS DELIVERY Tessitura
MACHINE
negativi
Golbale odori
In 1961 Ernesto Valente designed for Faema the Intensità olfattiva
E61, the
positivi
continuous delivery machine named after the solar eclipse
of that year.
This ingenious invention for the coffee world adopts a volu-
© 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Biochimici Corpo
metric pump (instead of the compression spring of the lever
diversi
machine) that allows you to prepare a perfect Espresso in
simplicity. By moving a lever or by pressing a button, powering
an electric motor that is connected to a pump that brings the
water pressure to 9 bars, keeping it constant throughout the
Speziato Acido
entire dispensing process.
The espresso machine is moved from the counter to the M
back counter; the customer can follow the bartender’s ability
Tostato Amaro
and technical skill during the coffee preparation. M
12
Frutta secca ed Astringenza
essiccataTHE COFFEE
In this decade Brazilian natural coffee is the main component
of the Italian blends; in addition to Brazil, the main exporters
include Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico and Uganda.
At the coffee shops the Espresso is the prominent drink du-
1960
ring breakfast and work
IL C AFFÈ DELLbreaks of the ItalianA people.
A MACCHINA POMPA
In Japan in 1950, coffee importation is officially permitted; in
NI
AN
a few years hundreds of kissaten (coffee rooms) are opened.
20
In the United States the coffee giants offers low quality
blends, emphasizing price and brand as opposed to flavor
and aroma. In 1966, Peet’s Coffee & Tea opened in Berkeley
California, where the Dutch Alfred Peet offered his custo-
mers quality coffee. Peet is considered the “grandfather” of
specialty coffee.
Chi
Colour intensity
Overall negative Texture
odours
Overall positive Olfactive intensity
odours
© 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Body
Biochemical
Spicy Acidity
Roasted Bitterness
Dried fruits Astringency
Vegetable Flowers/ www.a
fresh fruit
13
Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 12 03/10/2017 11:17:071970 – OGGI
THE ITALIAN ESPRESSO
THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD
OF COFFEE
1971 – Starbucks inauguration.
1974 – Per primo il Tea & Coffee Trade Journal parla di
specialty coffee.
1982 – SCAA, Specialty Coffee Association of America
was born and in 1998 SCAE was born in Europe.
1993 – Established IIAC, International Coffee Tasting
Institute and in 1998 INEI, National Institute of
Italian Espresso.
2015 – ICO, International Coffee Organization establi
shes the International Coffee Day on October 1st.
CUSTOMIZED EXTRACTION MACHINES
Technologies applied to espresso machines allow you to cu-
stomize the extraction and achieve levels of excellence in the
cup. The first step is the creation of the independent group
machine, it continues with the ability to change the pressure
or water temperature on the coffee cake during extraction.
The single portion coffee spreads in the stores with machines
or dedicated groups.
14THE COFFEE
In the 1980s, in United States starts a new research for quali-
ty: in 2012, 37% of the total coffee consumption was attribu-
ted to Specialty coffee (SCA data).
From the 90’s in Europe, coffee becomes a drink with a
strong cultural and sensorial2000
value. With 12.6 kilos per capita
L‘ESPRESSO
the North Europeans ITALIANO
drink the most amount of coffee in the
world, but just Arabica.
NI
AN
20
In Italy the preference for lighter blends, with high percen-
tages of Arabica is in the Center-North, darker blends and
greater use of Robusta is common the South.
Japan represents 11% of the world sales by value.
China discovers the coffee and Espresso, the coffee shops be-
came widespread phenomena and the coffee culture grows.
Australia has discovered coffee and espresso thanks to Italian Ch
immigration, that is the reason for the popularity of “Latte Re-
volution”, the brewing and also the growth of small roasters
receiving massive request for specialty coffee.
Colour intensity
Overall negative Texture
odours
Overall positive Olfactive intensity
odours
© 2012 Luigi Odello, Centro Studi Assaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè
Body
Biochemical
Spicy Acidity
Roasted Bitterness
Dried fruits Astringency
Vegetable Flowers/ www.a
fresh fruit
14
15
Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 14 03/10/2017 11:17:23egustazione
orica
MILANI SPA
22030 Lipomo (Co) - Via Provinciale, 811
affè e metodi di estrazione
Tel. +39 031 280778 Fax. +39 031 282762
al 1900 a oggi info@caffemilani.it - www.caffemilani.it
D egustazione
S torica
Vivere la s toria
dell’espresso
in prima persona
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